I started working on my Pastille toile on Friday. I took my time, did my measurements, and decided to cut a 14. I carefully traced each pattern piece, cut out an old bedsheet, and started stitching everything together today. I was doing so well! I was taking my time, taking breaks, going slowly. I figured this would not be a wearable muslin because the fabric I was using was splotched and faded (plus it was far too thin to be wearable without a lining or slip) but I wanted to get all of the techniques right before I cut my real fabric.
Before i even got to the zipper I realized there had been a horrible mistake. I was having the same gaping back problem everyone else has had, with one exception - my waist was at LEAST 4 inches too small. It was a bit tight around the skirt but the waist! The bust darts were a bit too high.
I decided to baste the zipper in real quick to see if I could at least try to fit it, but it was hopeless. I have no idea how I mismeasured my waist, but I did.
I remeasured, and my body is all over the place. The 14 fit my bust perfectly, except for the waist. I'll need a 16 for the skirt for more comfortable movement. And I'll need an 18! for my waist. Next time, I'll cut a 16 and grade out the waist a little bit to see if that helps. I'll probably also have to do some adjusting in the back so it doesn't gape, though I won't know how much until I've got my second toile done.
Speaking of the Pastille, I bought some acetate lining to underline my dress whenever I get the fit down. I wanted to buy Bemberg rayon, but it was FIVE times the price, and I'm broke. The acetate feels better than the other poly stuff but not quite as smooth as the bemberg. (note: bemberg rayon lining is almost double the price at Dressew than it is online at Mood. What. The. Fuck.)
Tomorrow we're at a derby scrimmage and having a few friends over, then Monday starts school again so I doubt I'll be anywhere near as prolific as I'd like to be with redesigning. Hopefully I'll have a finished toile within the week! Expect some leggings to tide you over, though. I've got some animal prints to cut into for Jungle January!